Declan Schweitzer

Intro to Journalism

Heather Chaplin

10.24.10

Nora Pouillon

Nora Pouillon picks up the phone after the first ring. There is commotion behind her voice and you can tell she is probably at work in her restaurant. It is the fist and one of only three certified organic restaurants in the entire country. What would seem to be a disruptive environment for conversation is somehow not discouraging. Perhaps it is due to her warm voice or charming Viennese accent. Or maybe it is the fact that she is as interested in telling me about her story as I am in hearing it. She warns me that there is a chance the interview will be cut short because she is at work but explains quickly that if this happens, she will gladly reschedule the remaining conversation. One can tell she is a busy women who’s passion for organic products and delicious food demands her complete attention. Strangely enough, it is that same passion that makes her eager to be on the phone or anywhere talking about her life, her restaurant, and her philosophy of food,

It would be inappropriate to say that Pouillon has a “history” with organic food; this would imply that her fascination began at some point during her life. Instead one might say that food is her history. Born in post-war Austria in the 1943, Nora’s family had moved to the country side during her mother’s pregnancy because fresh food was so difficult to find within the city. Nora spent the first three years of her life in a farming community that was entirely self-sufficient and for the most part, organic. Pouillon attributes much of her passion for healthy food and a wholesome lifestyle to this early stage of her life, which was characterized by the most basic element: food. She also considers her father to be particularly influential in developing her commitment to food.

“My father always said your health is the most important thing,” Nora tells me. “The easiest way keep your health is to eat good things your whole life.”

In the early 1960’s after completing a traditional French schooling, Nora made the journey across the Atlantic in hopes of starting her own restaurant. When she arrived she was devastated by the state of the food systems in America.

“When I got here it was crazy, literally like food wasteland,” she said. “I didn’t wake up one day and say ‘Hey I’m organic’, but when I saw these foods, I knew that I could not use them in a restaurant.”

Nora’s own restaurant, simply called “Nora” opened in 1979 after she had worked on other projects and restaurants in America. Although she was discouraged when she first arrived in the U.S. by the state of the American food landscape, Pouillon immediately started searching out the farms that produced organically. Slowly the network of organic farmers grew and by the 1980’s she was able to supply her own restaurant with many organically grown goods. It is funny to hear her talk about the history of the restaurant. There is a sense that the excitement in her voice comes from a re-living of the challenges she faced when starting this great project. She seems to remember all of the farmers that were part of what she calls “the old crew”—the first circle of farmers and progressive chefs that dedicated themselves to the organic ideal.

“I didn’t always know that my passion was for organic food but I realized then,” she explains in her passionate broken English. “slowly I built up a friend of farmers and they could give me the organic food I needed.”

In wasn’t until the 1990’s that Nora was actually certified as organic. Pouillon was the first to try and achieve this status in the restaurant world and therefore had to work together with the private organic certification company, “Tilth” to develop the actual standards that go into certification. In 1999 she was finally gratified with organic certification making her restaurant even more successful and widely acclaimed.

Even now after more than 10 years of being organic and 31 years of success, Nora is still highly involved in her restaurant. Her commitment is slightly more demanding than a conventional chef for a number of reasons. Most importantly, her suppliers are never stable. She explained that her biggest challenge is keeping her ingredient lists stocked in the kitchen because there are so many growers that go from organic to conventional farming or visa versa.

“I have a man on my staff who is constantly dealing with finding the farmers and working out how to get the foods to the restaurant,” Pouillon tells me with a frantic and frustrated tone. “Some growers are only organic for one or two seasons before they quit.”

Nora Pouillon is modest about her influence on the organic world. Although she is considered a pioneer in the progressive food community she doesn’t think that her project is anything to be surprised about. Instead she thinks of conventional farming, chemically modified foods and cosmetics as obviously harmful and ignorant.

“When people say that organic food is too expensive I think they don’t understand.

You have to know the real cost of eating these (non-organic) things,” she says. “You are paying with your health instead of you money.”